A few months ago I won Hair Products 101 by Chicoro from Kai over at ManeAndChic (neither pictured above). This actually is the first hair-related book I’ve truly read and it absolutely has peeked my interest in purchasing similar books. The information discussed has caused me to reevaluate the products in my arsenal and how they are being used. This book also clarifies some misconceptions, us in the hair world, are not always total sure of.
Although Chicoro is not a professional Chemist, she has educated herself about this subject beyond the average consumer. I say this to say, the information she offers in this book is quite valuable to someone like you and myself.
With permission from Chicoro, below you will find an excerpt from a chapter in this book called –
Step 3: Understanding Product Ingredients and Formulations…
Silicones & Lubricants
Silicone does not prevent moisture from entering or leaving the hair strand. Although silicones are not occlusive, meaning they do not smoother the hair strand, they can be difficult to remove, even with clarifying shampoos.
There are two kinds of silicones: volatile and substantive. Volatile silicones are formulated for the benefit of wet hair. They help wet hair to feel smooth. They are designed to provide lubrication as a middle, or temporary state in the washing and conditioning process. Once the hair dries, these types of silicones have performed their job. Substantive silicones are formulated to provide slip and lubrication for dry hair. Unlike volatile silicones, they do not evaporate or disappear. The volatile silicones are transitory or temporary, while the substantive silicones stick around — literally.
If your product suggests that you use the product on wet hair and you see silicones in the list of ingredients, you can assume that the product contains volatile silicones. If the directions suggest that you use the product on dry hair and you see silicones in the list, you can assume that the product contains substantive silicones.
Before reading this excerpt, I was always under the impression that cones, no matter if geared towards wet or dry hair, remain in the hair until removed with a cleanser. While in the hair, silicones blocked moisture from entering the cuticle. This made me weary of using rinse-out conditioners with silicones (note: ingredients which are silicones are not always obvious, Chicoro spells this out in this book) and fearful that products used in my stretching process will not be able to penetrate and truly moisturize my hair. Based on the information provided above, those conditioners which do contain silicones are not too much of a threat when it comes to preventing moisture from penetrating hair strands when using products which are geared toward wet hair.