Nadege of Relaxed Hair Health writes:

If you were to ask me about what the most important part of my hair care routine is, I would, without a doubt say, “it’s the pre-poo!” I value the pre-shampoo aspect of my weekly routine even more so than the deep conditioning. In fact, I attribute the pre-poo step to my miraculus victory over numerous setbacks over the past couple of years. It was after I amped up my pre-poo that visible results began to emerge. I’d like to share more about this wonderful journey with you if you don’t mind….

I’d like to first begin by defining what I mean when I say pre-poo. Even though this term may be common place for some of you, there’s still a ton of people who have no idea what the pre-poo is and why it’s even important. Basically, pre-pooing is the act of applying conditioner, to dry hair, prior to the wash. The purpose of doing so is to prepare the hair for the shampoo/conditioning process.

Now that we got that out of the way, let’s get to the nitty gritty……

What’s the point of the pre-poo? You’re just going to wash your hair anyway.
Yes it is true that the product applied during the pre-poo step is not only rinsed out, but washed out by your shampoo. Even with this being true, there’s a whole heap of benefits to this process. First off, the wash routine is highly stressful on the hair. There’s a ton of manipulation that tends to take place when we wash, deep condition and style the hair. Remember my post on protecting the cuticle layer? One of the biggest learnings, for me, when I researched articles for the post, was how much damage one can avoid to the cuticle layer by simply making sure the hair is conditioned before the excessive manipulation takes place. For me, the pre-poo step is the ultimate answer to the problem of wash day manipulation. Because of the pre-poo, my hair feels much less stripped after the wash. I don’t know about you but I love the feeling of having clean, conditioned hair even before the deep conditioning step. By the time I’ve deep conditioned, my hair not just conditioned but ultra-moisturized.

What product(s) should I use during my pre-poo?
Ah yes….here’s where the fun begins. When I first began to incorporate the pre-poo into my routine, I would basically just squirt a bottle of .99 cent conditioner on top of my hair. It wasn’t until I conducted the Hair Fixer Experiment that I was forced to look at the pre-poo into a whole new way. If you read those posts or used Hair Fixer, you might remember that I was essentially barred from using deep conditioner for a full 6 weeks. My only recourse was to really focus on how could create a powerful pre-poo. That’s when I began to experiment and get creative. Immediately I upgraded from cheap water based conditioners to more intensive ones. Since I wasn’t using my “good” conditioners for their normal purposes, I started to use them before my wash. The difference I noticed was huge! In fact, I believe this shift in my routine was critical to my success with Hair Fixer. Since then, my routine has evolved to include a myriad of pre-poo boosters. Today, I experiment with oils, powders, and other products to make my pre-poo that much more powerful. Specifically, I like to include coconut oil for it’s ability to penetrate and add protein to the hair strand. Amla oil, just because it works well every time I’ve used it. High powered, thick conditioners because I like for my conditioners to “stick” to the hair and have a bigger impact. Additionally, sometimes I break open some vitamin e capsules or pour a few drops of honey to the mix for good measure. Pretty much anything I feel comfortable adding to my deep conditioner is fair game for my pre-poo mix.

How do I maximize the pre-poo step?
Without a doubt, the most complicated part of my weekly routine is the pre-poo. The process, has evolved so much. It’s now become a mechanism to systematically erradicate hair issues and promote health above anything else I do. Just recently I shared my “strand ceremony” with you all. I can’t begin to tell how how vital this process has been for my hair. I don’t know about you but for the longest, I just haven’t been able to make huge improvements in the health of my hair, in the past, even though I deep conditioned weekly. I believe this is because I wasn’t able to master the art of impacting the individual strands that ultimately create a beautiful head of hair. The pre-poo, for me, was the ultimate answer to this dilemma. The pre-poo gives me easier access to smaller sections of hair because I’m better able part and apply product on dry hair versus damp, freshly washed hair.

Beyond that, I’ve also incorporated “deep conditoner-like” actions into my pre-poo step like sitting under my steamer. I’ve even gone as far as extending my pre-poo overnight. If found that, instead of choosing one over another, combining the forces of Burt’s Bees and OJON pre-shampoo treatments to create an amazing duo of pre-poo goodness. All I needed to do was add a plastic cap and some time for the products to germinate and voila! If any of you are interested in pre-pooing overnight, I find that using oil based products, like those described above, are much more powerful than water based conditioners.

I hope this was helpful to you who are still trying to figure out if the pre-poo step is even worth it for you in your routine. For me, it meant break though but I had to take it to the next level. Bottom line is this has been the most critical means of improving the overall health of my hair in recent months. Hopefully you will find value from my sharing so your hair will benefit as well.

SOURCE: Nadege of Relaxed Hair Health

Got any pre-poo secrets in your routine? I’d love to hear about it!

Blow drying is bad
Blow drying causes a “flash drying” effect that not only removes the surface moisture but also removes water that is bound to the hair, which is called water of hydration. The effect of this flash drying is that the cuticles become dried, rigid and brittle. When the hair flexes, the pressure causes the cuticles to crack. One study (see Reference 1) showed cracks occurring not only on the surface layer of cuticles, but actually two and three cuticle layers deep. Combing hair with this degree of cuticle cracking causes significant breakage.

MORE: Preventing Heat Damage while Flat Ironing

Ironing is icky
Ironing hair causes two different types of damaging depending on whether the hair is ironed dry or wet. Ironing dry hair causes radial and axial cracking along the edges of the cuticles, which can lead to chipping. Ironing wet hair causes the moisture to burst out in little steam explosions. This causes a bubbling and buckling of the cuticle that appears as tiny hair blisters under magnification.

Helpful heat treatments
Blow dry damage can be prevented by using products containing glycerin and propylene glycol because these actives retard water evaporation. Products like Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray should be helpful in this regard. You can also look for an ingredient called “hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer,” which also showed significant reduction in cracking. Interestingly, while we would expect various silicones to have a similar effect, this study showed that silicones alone did NOT reduce cuticle cracking.

Iron damage can be reduced by using conditioners formulated with low molecular weight conditioners that can penetrate into the hair like cetrimonium chloride. Another study (see Reference 2) showed that exposing hair to heat in the presence of such a conditioning agent actually caused an increase in tensile strength (the force required to break a hair). This is because the heat reacts with the conditioning agents and cross links some of the protein chains inside the hair. Look for products like Sunsilk Heat Defense Cream if you want this effect.

Additional Conditioners Containing Centrium Chloride
Kerastase Ciment ThermiqueLacio Lacio Leave-in Conditioner
Queen Helene Super Cholesterol*
Yes to Carrots Pampering Hair Conditioner
Silk Elements Mega Silk Moisturizing Treatment
Elasta QP DPR-11+ Deep Penetrating Conditioner

SOURCE: Right Brain of  BeautyBrains

 What products do you use to help prevent heat damage?

Transitioning to natural hair means shopping for new hair products. We often wonder what ingredients will help our natural curls grow and stay healthy. Organic and unrefined ingredients always work the best on natural black hair.

If you are a natural newbie or natural hair pro wondering what to look for in hair products, we have created a list to consider for reference for product purchases.

1. Shea Butter – this helps to reduce the amount water that is lost in your hair. It melts easily in hair and absorbs into dry hair well.
2. Coconut Oil – this ingredient is perfect for sealing moisture into the hair. Also, it helps to make your natural hair shine instead of it looking dull.
3. Aloe Vera – It helps to restore the pH levels of the scalp. Also, aids with hair growth.
4. Jojoba Oil – Works to fix damaged ends.
5. Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Used often for as a deep conditioner. It helps to seal moisture and softens the hair.
6. Avocado Oil – Works great as a conditioning treatment. Packed with vitamins A, D, and E, this oil helps to improve hair growth.
7. Vegetable Glycerin – Helps your hair lock in moisture by creating a layer of oil over your hair’s strands.
8. Castor Seed Oil – Ensures a clean scalp. If you had a hair loss, it helps to increase the thickness of thinning edges.
9. Sesame Oil – Protects the hair from harsh temperatures.
10. Tea Tree Oil – Used a remedy for dry scalp, but should not be over applied.
11. Grapeseed Oil – It is a light oil that easily absorbed by natural hair.
12. Sweet Almond Oil – Helps to get rid of flaky, itchy scalp.

MORE: Natural? Products You Should Consider

BONUS Tutorial                                                                                                                                   

naptural85′s Shea Butter Tutorial

SOURCE: Paulette Wilson of VibeVixen

What other ingredients should be added to this list?

PRODUCT SPECS

Price: $16.99 (4 oz)
Where to Buy: Entwine Couture
Product Claims: Naturalle-Style Recall Technology™ for 60% longer lasting, redefinable styles and staying  power. Curl elongation for less shrinkage. Improves curl definition and shine. Resist humidity for less frizz. Helps to condition and protect the hair. Strengthens hair up to 75% while styling. Lightweight with No Tacky, Sticky Film or Excessive Build-up. Absolutely NO Mineral Oil, Petrolatum or Parabens
Ingredients: Water.  Isopropyl Myristate, Oleth-20…  [more]

THE REVIEW

I copped this joint at the hair show a few weeks ago.  I’m going to be honest — Entwine never really peaked my interest, which is probably why they were my last stop at the show. Entwine’s deal was $10 for all 8oz products.  Pretty good considering the website is toting an almost $30 price tag for the same product.

With the product I also got a mini pamphlet  which stated a 100% Money Back Guarantee that caught my eye.  If you know me, you know I’m always up for a challenge. I was ready to shut Entwine’s claims down and go on ‘head and send their customer service an e-mail requesting my $10 back lol.

Negative. Didn’t happen.

As many saw from my teaser post, this product does some great things!  First and foremost, after setting, my hair did not poof into a huge ‘fro, which is what usually happens in the hotter, humid months down here in the South.  Also it is important to consider there was high humidity on day one and there after. Plus there has been isolated showers all week.  The product was only re-applied once since the initial set. I even got caught in a drizzle several times on day 5 without an umbrella. The photo below is what my hair looked like at the end of my work day (day 5). Sorry, its a bit out of focus. Technology :-/

I originally applied this product after stretching my hair with heat and styled into a simple twist and curl. The texture of this product is like a slimy, sticky lotion. It’s hard to explain, but based on how it applied I was definitely expecting a sticky residue, even though I used a fingernail’s worth of product on each twist. Not so. The twists dried quickly, felt smooth, flexible, were defined, had body (see video below).

Though this product performed great, there are a couple things to consider:
1. The scent is very floral.  If you are sensitive, this may easily give you a headache, but the scent is not long lasting.  Its pretty much gone after day one.
2. The retail price. At almost $30 for 8 oz., it is quite pricey. But since so little is needed to do the job,  this jar can last over a month with weekly twisting.
3. Smoothness. My hair did make out pretty well, but I do wish the product smoothed the cuticle just a bit more. It’s possible. I’ve seen it happen.

The first photo illustrates my curls at the start of day one.  The photo below is what my hair looked like at the end of day one…after being out in the elements all day.

This video is a bonus tutorial demonstrating  how I maintain all twist-out and braid-outs.  Also, don’t forget to SUBSCRIBE!

Check the twist and curl on stretched hair! Check that shine! Oh and did ya check the minimal frizz? And the best part of it all is that the curls stood up to after-rain humidity!

How did this miracle occur you ask? I tried a new product.  I didn’t want to like it. I really didn’t. But it seemingly has lived up to all of it claims. One of those claims happen to be defy humidity.

MORE: Humidity Got the Best of Me

With hair on point, I decided this would be a good time time test run the diamond studs I customized which were gifted to me from Anjolee.  They also have diamond tennis bracelets and diamond earrings.

MORE:  Humidity on the High Seas

Without further adieu, here is my hair after 6 hours of running errands and hanging out in an outdoor garden after a rainy day. Pay the face no mind.  It was a long day and I was also testing out the long-wear of a new foundation that I don’t think I like so much. Anywho!

Give me a minute while I write up this review for you guys. Stay tuned! ETA: Humidity Defying Product Revealed

 Any guesses on what product this might be?

photo Savannah Stylist

Skyping with my cousin in the Virgin Islands, I found out she needed a little guidance with her hair.  She’s always been Natural, much like many other women in our family, but felt her hair could be doing much better than it is. She inquired about the products I currently use — I shared with her, not only do I splurge and feed into my product junkie habits, but there are a few products that have become apart of my staple line up no matter what junkie kick I am on.

Jojoba Oil- This oil is most similar to the sebum in which our scalp/skin naturally produces. It works well to moisturize the scalp and helps to prevent dandruff. Unlike coconut oil, Jojoba oil is also non-comedogenic and will not clog your pores and cause breakouts. When used post-styling, the oil also help to increase your hair’s shine, but is also a great additive to a cheapie or expensive conditioner ($9).

Castor Oil- Want softer hair? Castor oil is your best bet. Not only does this oil help to make your hair softer, but it also provides shine and has been rumored to increase hair growth and thickness. There are different types of this oil. Jamaican Black Castor Oil is unprocessed, which most nutrients remain in tact. This oil’s viscosity is very thick. I find its easier to distribute throughout your hair when mixed in with other oils and/or moisturizing leave-in or conditioners. ($8) Oils From Jamaica coupon: VIX

Virgin Coconut Oil -- A natural conditioner. This is the one oil said to have molecules small enough to penetrate the hair shaft allowing it to truly moisturize hair. Asian cultures have used this oil to treat dry hair, helping to grow to drool worthy lengths.  When hair is damp or wet, it allows the oils to penetrate the shaft. For the value, this oil is great for oil rinsing, as well as an additive in conditioners ($7).

MORE: Benefits of Coconut Oil on Black Hair

Elastic Processing Caps -- These plastic caps are helpful to complete one of the most important steps we should do as Naturals. Deep condition. When deep conditioning for an extended amount of time, this cap helps to keep the body heat moisture radiating from your hair/head local.  I prefer overnight deep conditioning, but if short 30 minute spurts are your preference, elastic processing caps works as well ($0.99).

MORE: Selecting a Moisturizing Deep Conditioner

Wide Tooth Comb -- With kinks and curls, it is obvious we need combs with wide set teeth.  This helps to reduce breakage when detangling. ($1.89)

What are your staple products?

“I have a problem with single strand knots. They drive me crazy and I find myself popping them off whenever I find them. I know this isn’t good…but do you experience those with your hair being longer?”

Us gals with naturally textured hair have are more susceptible to an evil doer we call single strand knots (SSKs) or fairy knots. These knots occur when coily or curly hair wraps around itself and forms a knot within one strand of hair. Presence of these knots are easily visible to the naked eye and can also be felt as you run your fingers down a strand of hair.  Dry hair, split ends and lifted cuticles due to too high pH levels can perpetuate the presence of these knots. To reduce the possibility of knots, there are a few precautions that should be taken and it starts with wash day:

Remove shed hairs. This can easily be done before washing by gently tugging on your hair section by section removing those hair which may cause tangling in the wash process.

Wash and condition in sections.  The TV commercials of women shampooing their hair with it piled atop of their heads is not ideal for our hair type. Consider washing and conditioning in 4-6 sections of braids or twists and un-braiding/untwisting one section at a time as your cleanse.  Follow by braiding/twisting it back up before moving on to the next section.

Keep your hair stretched.  An elongated strand is less likely to curl upon itself, creating a knot. See this tutorial of one way to stretch hair.

Protective style. Whether straight or textured, loose hair is a breeding ground for knots.  Keeping your hair in twists, braids or a bun reduces manipulation providing less of a chance for hair to tangle and create knots.

BONUS Tutorial                                                                                                                                   

What technique do you use to reduce single strand knots?

Its no secret that Tracee Ellis Ross is one of my favorite fashionistas! We can always count on her to bring something new and fresh to the red carpet.  She exudes confidence with her curves, big hair, and equally big personality that many women can’t help but admire.  There are a few elements of style which are classic, simple, yet bold which we can always count on Ms. Ross toting at any red carpet event.

Count on a BOLD LIP| The palate of Tracee’s make-up is almost always a nude  with a bold lip. No eyeshadow blending and coordinating for this lady.  She accents her eyes with black liner, mascara and a pop of color on her lips — her puckers are the main focus.

Count on SIMPLE JEWELS| Never bogged down with many accessories.  Tracee keeps things uncomplicated.  Rightfully so. Too many jewels can alter the focus from her gorgeous face to the trinkets on her neck, wrist and ears.  Tracee often rocks a pair of simple gold hoops, studs, or no earrings at all.

Count On a CLUTCH| This lady does not haul around the kitchen sink — just enough storage for her keys, cell phone and lip gloss. What more does a girl need? Never too matchy-matchy, but well coordinated. Just like her lip — a POP of color to any outfit.

Count on HEELS| Tracee never graces the carpet with flats!  Girlie adds a little pep to her step and a pucker to her bumper by always sporting a pair of dainty heels.  Like her clutch, never matching — but always coordinated.

MORE: Tracee Ellis Ross’ Hair Regimen

We think its tremendous popularity is proof that the 2012 Corolla offers the ideal blend of comfort, value and safety. In it, you’ll find a surprising number of high-end features, like available Display Audio system. It offers remarkable performance and fuel efficiency, plus an impressive list of standard safety features. Factor in its legendary reliability, and it’s even more apparent that Corolla is the smart choice.

Compensation was provided by TOYOTA via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of TOYOTA.

by Jolene Hart of  YouBeauty

Lead in lipstick, formaldehyde in hair straightening treatments, phthalates in perfume: with a steady stream of undesirable ingredients coming to light in our personal care products, it’s no surprise that consumers want to play it safe by going back to nature. “Going natural” with personal care resonates with so many consumers that beauty brands are taking notice—and positioning their products to meet the growing demand for natural ingredients.  The only problem? The word natural on a beauty product label doesn’t offer a single guarantee about what you’ll find inside. You might think that natural means green, but it’s one big gray area.

Defining natural
What does the term “natural” mean anyway? The Natural Products Association (NPA), a non-profit organization that created the nation’s first natural product certification, defines a natural product as having “ingredients that come or are made from a renewable resource found in nature (flora, fauna, mineral), with absolutely no petroleum compounds.” That may be what most of us expect to get when we purchase a natural product, but a single, agreed-upon definition of “natural” does not exist in the personal care industry, where most marketing claims, including the term natural, still go unregulated. In light of this ambiguity, it’s increasingly common for personal care companies to create their own guidelines for natural. “Natural can mean absolutely anything in the personal care industry right now,” says Ni’Kita Wilson, YouBeauty Cosmetic Chemistry Expert.  “Every manufacturer has their own definition of natural, so it makes it very difficult for the consumer to grasp what natural really is.” The term ‘natural’ has no legal bearing on the ingredients in personal care products, so your natural rose moisturizer could contain only ingredients that meet the NPA standard like shea butter and rose essential oil—or it could be full of synthetics, right down to its rose fragrance.

And there’s no sign that the confusion will be cleared up any time soon. “The government has made it quite clear that they are not going to define natural. The word means different things for different product categories,” explains Dr. Cara Welch, Vice President of Scientific and Regulatory Affairs for the NPA. At the moment, there doesn’t even appear to be any repercussions for companies that misrepresent the ingredients in their products as natural. “The only regulatory consequence [for false advertising] would be with the Federal Trade Commission, which looks at advertising to determine that it’s truthful and not misleading. However, since there really is no definition of natural, it’s difficult to decide what is truthful and not misleading. So it’s not likely to be enforced,” explains Welch.

When nature doesn’t know best
To further prove that ‘natural’ isn’t always a clear indicator of safety, Mother Nature complicates things with a few tricks of her own.  Even if a product truly is made only from ingredients found in nature, not every natural ingredient is guaranteed to be safe or desirable to put on your body. “One of the biggest misconceptions is that natural ingredients are safer. Soy is a natural ingredient but has also been flagged as an endocrine disruptor—just like parabens!” says Wilson (parabens being the controversial synthetic preservatives commonly found in beauty products). Petroleum byproducts like propylene glycol and petrolatum are made from crude oil, a natural substance, but many consumers actively avoid them. Just because an ingredient comes from nature should not give it an all-access pass into your beauty regimen. On the flipside, some truly natural ingredients carry names that you might perceive as coming straight from the lab. “Sometimes ingredients have very chemical-sounding names, but they’re completely natural, like myristyl myristate, a mix of alcohol and acid,” says Welch.

How to shop natural
With no clear guidelines for deciphering a product label or an ingredient list, what’s a concerned shopper to do? There are a few strategies to ensure that you get exactly what you bargained for in your beauty regimen. The most restrictive route, says Wilson, is to choose only products that are directly pressed or extracted from botanical sources like trees, flowers and herbs. This could mean seeking out small-batch brands and manufacturers that offer transparent information about the origin of every ingredient. A more practical route may be to look for products that bear a seal guaranteeing that their ingredients meet a rigorous quality standard. The NPA seal, for example, certifies that a product is made with at least 95 percent natural ingredients, according to the NPA’s definition of the term. Since its inception in 2008, more than 800 personal care products have been certified by the NPA. Other product seals, like Natrue, BDIH and Cosmos (which includes the Ecocert and Soil Association seals), certify varying standards of natural and organic. With a little exploration, you can find a seal that aligns with your personal ingredient standards. And next time you shop, you’ll have security where it matters most—inside the bottle.

Photo Courtesy of Karen’s Body Beautiful, Jane Carter, Carol’s Daughter, Shea Moisture

What ALL natural products are you using?

Neutrogena is joining the masses and Going Green by expanding its line of Neutrogena Naturals products. Modern skincare is now available to us all at reasonable prices with naturally derived ingredients.  They took it a step further and created a line of products which are free of harsh chemicals sulfates, parabens, petrochemicals, dyes, phthalates. I like that the labels are easy to read. It lists the ingredients and the natural source from which it is derived (see below).

Fresh Cleansing + Makeup Remover: Removing makeup can be tricky if your cleanser is not strong enough, but if it is too stripping you are left with super dry skin.  This cleanser is the baby bear of makeup removing cleansers --  it’s just right. With one wash, all signs of my previously beat face was gone. I’ve been using this specific product since last Summer. On a girl getaway I let one of the bffs try and she immediately took a liking. I wouldn’t be surprised if she had a bottle or two up under her bathroom sink.

Purifying Pore Scrub:  This cleanser is not as harsh at it sounds. Many experts don’t recommend the use of abrasive scrubs when you have acne-prone skin. That is probably why Neutrogena made the tiny scrubbers barely noticeable and quite mild. Very considerate.  An active ingredient in this product is salicylic acid, which is derived from willow bark. Salicylic acid is found in many products geared towards acne-prone skin. It helps to slough away dead skin sells, promoting cleared pores. I use this product in the AM.

Face and Body Bar: With avocado and olive oil both being antioxidants which promote glowing skin, this body bar is great to use AFTER completely cleansing the body of bacteria with your bath soap.  I use this bar as a final rinse, just after my Luffa, sealing in the antioxidants. Talk about smooth and fresh!

Multi-Vitamin Nourishing Night Cream: Not too thick, greasy, or pore clogging, this moisturizer feared well with my oily/acne-prone skin. It absorbs nicely and I don’t wake up with an oil slick on my t-zones in the AM  lol (which is typical for me when using other creams). I may try using this in the day time as well, but I’d have to be sure to add a little sunscreen.

Go Green!                                                                                                                                                                                                     
Beyond offering women natural skincare solutions, Neutrogena® Naturals is dedicated to making an impact on the world in which we live. The brand recently partnered with Brand Ambassador Kristen Bell, The Nature Conservancy and water conservationist Alexandra Cousteau to develop the video series, “Exploring Natural Beauty.” These videos speak to the need to change our relationship with water and recognize how critical it is to preserve this resource for future generations.

I go green with reusable water bottles and shopping bags.  Both reduce my carbon foot print and save a little cash.  I refill my bottle at the water cooler at work and I get a discount at the grocers for having my own bags. #FrugalMcDugal! Both tiny steps which can make a great impact. Try it!

NEUTROGENA® Naturals Multi-Vitamin Nourishing Night Cream replenishes essential skin nutrients and is fortified with vitamins B, C, E and anti-oxidant omega bionutrients. This nourishing cream is clinically proven to boost skin’s defense against dullness and roughness, leaving it  naturally radiant, healthier and younger looking today and in the future.  It contains no harsh chemical sulfates, parabens, petrochemicals, dyes or phthalates.

NEUTROGENA® Naturals Multi-Vitamin Nourishing Moisturizer is a daily lotion that replenishes essential skin nutrients while providing continuous moisture throughout the day for healthier, younger-looking skin. It contains no harsh chemical sulfates, parabens, petrochemicals, dyes or phthalates.

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by Neutrogena via Glam Media.  The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Neutrogena.